Publication: Herefordshire Times Date: 2009-01-01 Author: Sarah Walker
Sarah Walker travels to the beautiful resort of Arinsal on Andorra and catches the skiing holiday bug.
Andorra was actually my second attempt at skiing, but as my previous trip was almost 10 years ago (when I was a fearless teenager who was more worried about impressing my pals than what might happen if I shot off the edge of a Canadian peak), I considered my ability to be only a teeny bit above absolute beginner.
But I was far from alone in the pretty resort of Arinsal, known for its perfect-for-learning set-up, as novice skiers outweigh the whizzes. Hundreds of them pour into Arinsal's superb five-day ski schools every week during peak season, all wanting to try the slopes on for size, but have fun at the same time. You are on holiday after all, but I warn, that idea may escape you for the first day or two.
Yes, skiing is far from relaxing, particularly if you're relatively new to it like I was. The first morning saw me up at 7.30am for a good breakfast as advised – my four-star and fancy hotel, the Princesa Parc, offers a fantastic spread to fuel its guests for the slopes, and I joined in making the most of that. And then it was time to layer up, and head up. Gulp.
Once on the mountain and after a quick stop at the rental shop (equipment was all pre-booked with my tour operator Directski, as were my lessons, flights and half-board accommodation, all I had to remember was my thermal underwear), I hauled my marshmallow-resembling self, space boots, lethal-looking poles, and even more sinister skis over to ski school registration. And started to sweat.
I didn't want to do it. I would have given anything not to do it. I was petrified, on the verge of tears, and absolutely certain that going up that mountain would lead me to my death. But an hour later I was loving it.
Those old clichés about never forgetting how to ride a bike, and getting how to ride a bike, and getting straight back on a horse after falling off, can certainly be applied to skiing. A couple of hours under the guidance, and patience, of the Vall Nord instructors at Arinsal, and I was back snowploughing (the ‘wedge' ski position beginners are first taught, heels pointing out, toes in), paralleling, and weaving my way down the blue runs with ease. Even the scary six-man chair lift wasn't too terrifying after a couple of go's.
You can bear skiing for an adrenaline rush in my book. Heart pumping, muscles working their hardest to keep you upright, a rush of nervousness every time you almost-fall, and a chilling wind nipping at your nose (the only area you will be exposing at these sub-zero temperatures), the slopes can provide levels of satisfaction you didn't know you could feel. Even if you're on your bottom more than your feet, I guarantee you will be left feeling damned proud at the end of the day. You will also be left a little sore, however. And perhaps walking a bit like a cowboy for a few days. Skiing is tough for a body not used to it, which is why you need to reward your battered self with a dew après ski treats.
The Princesa Parc has the luxury of its own spa, with lots of different pools and a comprehensive treatment list, but most of the hotels in Arinsal are more basic. It's worth a trip to the town of Andorra for some serious pampering though, as the centre boasts Europe's biggest mountain based thermoludic centre, Caldea. Basically a world of water, here you can spend hours dipping in and out of everything from Roman baths to grapefruit pools, just what a skied out body will be crying out for. And while you're in Andorra you should make use of the fabulous duty free prices – beauty products and alcohol are particularly cheap.
The ski resort of Arinsal is known for its nightlife, but it's far from a clubber's paradise. After a day on the mountain and knowing there is another one ahead, even hardened party people will find it a challenge to make it past midnight (the ongoing joke in my ski group was a comparison of bedtimes, the average on the first night being 9pm).
But you should certainly sample Arinsal's cosy collection of bars at some point. It is common for skiers to make a late afternoon stop for a hard-earned beer straight after descending from the mountain, in full ski gear, and I loved this carefree and ‘everyone invited' approach to holiday socialising.
It is easy to go through life vetoing a skiing holiday in favour of the beach every year, but I would strongly urge everyone to give the snow a go at least once. You may come back from the Med with a glowing tan and a nice straw hat, but I've never felt as invincible as I did after shooting my way down from 2,500 feet.
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